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Unravelling the dangers of fast fashion



A scetch by Lauren Calitz, a second year student at the Elizabeth Galloway Institute


This article is in anticipation for World Environment Day on 5 June.


Globally, and right here in Stellenbosch, there is a movement towards sustainable clothing.


Clothing production is one of the leading contributors of carbon emissions and waste in the world, largely because of the 'fast fashion' phenomenon.


The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, which aims to make the fashion industry more ethical, defines fast fashion as: “quicker turnaround of new styles, increased number of collections offered per year, and – often – lower prices".


Inez Shaw, head of the Elizabeth Galloway Institute of Design in Stellenbosch, points out the environmental dangers of fast fashion. "Because it is fast and in bulk everywhere in the globalized world, there is often fabric waste everywhere at every level."

The Institute is teaching its students not only about the dangers of fast fashion but also how to design sustainable clothing.


"We have started giving students at least one project in design which explicitly focuses on environmental health," says Shaw.


Lauren Calitz (23), a second-year student at the Institute says that the students' most recent projects have been about creating sustainable items.


"Creating fast fashion items is unsustainable so rather practising multi-functional and dual-purpose items is more valuable."


Shaw states that sustainable fashion means everything from how the product was made, how long it will be worn and how it will be discarded. She urges people to buy second hand and do research about clothing brands.


Ruan Goosen (23), a second-year student at Elizabeth Galloway, reiterates this. "Rather spend a little more on something that would last longer that is made ethically and preferably local."


Buying local is important as it reduces the amount of carbon emissions by cutting out transport and pushes money into the local economy.


The environmental impact is not the only negative effect of the clothing industry. Ethical matters regarding the fair treatment and payment of the people who make the garments have become concerning.


"A real danger stems from human rights abuses and unsafe work environments," Shaw comments. "In an effort for the retailers to save on costs, speed up delivery and therefore maximize margins, often producers who are the cheapest or fastest are given the work."


Goosen points out that ethical clothing is more work for designers. "It is important for young designers to know that, ‘yes, I can order 500 t-shirts from India for R10 a shirt, but is that ethical?"



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